Pakistan’s tiny, pagan Kalash tribe confronts some tough prospects. Its population has dwindled to roughly 4,000, trimmed by religious conversions to Islam (sometimes allegedly coerced), encroachment on land and declines in the agriculture that once was its mainstay. So the Kalash have staked their survival on tourism, inviting outsiders to visit their enclaves in several Hindu Kush mountain valleys. The Pakistani government has done little to help, even in terms of building roads to improve access, but a donors’ conference is in the works. |